Glass laser tube essential info

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Gene Uselman
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Glass laser tube essential info

Postby Gene Uselman » Sun Aug 28, 2016 6:15 am

#1. Glass tubes are very inexpensive compared to domestic [USA] tubes- so... there will be trade-offs

#2. It is important to know what your max current should be. This may be exceeded but there will be a trade-off on the life span. If you can find the mfrs site- it should be called out. The max current allowed may be limited on the High Voltage power supply- at power settings above the limitations power will be flat. If your machine does not have a Milli-amp meter, you should consider adding one. Here is a link to Hytech2K's nice article on adding one to his machine- it is not difficult electrically BTW:
viewtopic.php?p=1654

#3. Glass tubes are usually rated at the max power it can produce- safe max power will be less. Make allowances for this fact of life in the Chinese laser world.

#4. These tubes are sensitive to heat- if they are not cooled properly, life will be short. They can be cooled in a variety of ways- from a 5000 (and up) series chiller which is actually a refrigeration unit, to a 3000 series cooler which is a tank with a radiator and fan, to a fish tank circulation pump in a tub of water. What you need will be determined by the ambient temp, the duty cycle you expect and the life you expect. What ever you use the cooling water must be kept clean and I would not use tap water. You should have some way of monitoring the temp, of course.


#5. Shelf life of a Glass Laser tube is approximately 12000 hours. Much like a carbon battery, they deteriorate over time.

Laser Tubes.jpg


Some of the more respected Chinese tube makers have important details on their sites:

EFR- [tubes, power-supplies and lenses] http://en.bjefr.com/
Reci- [tubes, power-supplies and mirrors] http://www.recilaser.com/en/index.htm
Reci Tube Chart.JPG

If you see errors or would like to submit additions, please PM me. Thanks Gene
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Gene- 130W 1300x900 China Laser with 2" FL lens
V8.01.19 RDWorks on Win 7 pro
500mm Z, blade table machine home is upper right.

100W Reci tube in a Bodor BCL0605MU V8.01.19
600x500x 200Z, SS table, 2" FL- mach home upper right
Vectric Aspire software- FlexiSignPro- vector/bitmap

Daniel Brown

Re: Glass laser tube essential info

Postby Daniel Brown » Sun Oct 30, 2016 6:47 am

GeneMpls wrote:#4. These tubes are sensitive to heat- if they are not cooled properly, life will be short. They can be cooled in a variety of ways- from a 5000 (and up) series chiller which is actually a refrigeration unit, to a 3000 series cooler which is a tank with a radiator and fan, to a fish tank circulation pump in a tub of water. What you need will be determined by the ambient temp, the duty cycle you expect and the life you expect. What ever you use the cooling water must be kept clean and I would not use tap water. You should have some way of monitoring the temp, of course.


Hi Gene

How do you think something like this compares to the CW-3000?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JBA-Thermost ... 2cb4c25aba

I know someone locally who has a CW-3000 and they were a bit disappointed with it because that indeed is all it is, just a radiator and a fan. I wonder if that thing on ebay would work the same, for less than half the cost.

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Gene Uselman
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Re: Glass laser tube essential info

Postby Gene Uselman » Sun Oct 30, 2016 7:30 am

It looks like it may work, I have a 5000 on my main laser but the Bodor 100w that I am setting up came with a CW3000DG so I took a pict of the label for you it is .9A- if your voltage is 115V like ours it would be about .9 amps as well. 60 liters is about 13 gal so unless you have a large machine working hard, I think it would work. If you had your machine specs in your sig it would be easier to answer some questions :twisted: . Gene
Gene- 130W 1300x900 China Laser with 2" FL lens
V8.01.19 RDWorks on Win 7 pro
500mm Z, blade table machine home is upper right.

100W Reci tube in a Bodor BCL0605MU V8.01.19
600x500x 200Z, SS table, 2" FL- mach home upper right
Vectric Aspire software- FlexiSignPro- vector/bitmap

Daniel Brown

Re: Glass laser tube essential info

Postby Daniel Brown » Mon Oct 31, 2016 5:42 am

GeneMpls wrote:It looks like it may work, I have a 5000 on my main laser but the Bodor 100w that I am setting up came with a CW3000DG so I took a pict of the label for you it is .9A- if your voltage is 115V like ours it would be about .9 amps as well. 60 liters is about 13 gal so unless you have a large machine working hard, I think it would work. If you had your machine specs in your sig it would be easier to answer some questions :twisted: . Gene

I'm in Australia, and I have the common 500mm*700mm Red/Black 60(50)W machine. I try not to run it for any more than 30 minutes at a time as my reservoir gets too hot, ambient temperatures here are starting to creep up near summer. It was 29*C the other day :/ I had to ice it just to even start cutting.

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Gene Uselman
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Re: Glass laser tube essential info

Postby Gene Uselman » Mon Oct 31, 2016 6:24 am

I would encourage you to change your signature as you will have to in order to get the new English manual from Keith anyway (and you will want the manual- it is brilliant). And I hate you because it is just turning winter hereabouts. :twisted: Gene

how to add info to sig viewtopic.php?f=33&t=359
Gene- 130W 1300x900 China Laser with 2" FL lens
V8.01.19 RDWorks on Win 7 pro
500mm Z, blade table machine home is upper right.

100W Reci tube in a Bodor BCL0605MU V8.01.19
600x500x 200Z, SS table, 2" FL- mach home upper right
Vectric Aspire software- FlexiSignPro- vector/bitmap

Daniel Brown

Re: Glass laser tube essential info

Postby Daniel Brown » Mon Oct 31, 2016 6:25 pm

Does the new manual go into that sort of stuff though? I read the english manual a few months back and it didn't really have any detailed info on he effectiveness of chillers like the CW-3000, just saying that you might need one.

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Keith Sherwin
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Re: Glass laser tube essential info

Postby Keith Sherwin » Mon Oct 31, 2016 7:16 pm

No, it does not address chillers. However, depending on ambient temperatures and use, I have been told that below 80 watts a water bucket works well possibly with some frozen packs added. Below 101 Watts a 3000 chiller is probably OK. Higher wattage units need the 5000 series or more.

The new manual only addresses the software and its' use with the laser.
There are many things that could have been added, but it was not our intent to write a "Lasers for Dummies Book", although some had wanted us to do that. There may be a group working on that exact book though :D
Possibly IF there is a revision to the manual, items from the FAQ might be added to it as an addendum.
69 Real (80)Watt Laser w/multi FL lenses. T.L.
Made 5 CNC's, Electronics, Electrical, PLC & Computer background.
:idea: Started this forum - Using RDWorks V8.01.21 on W7 Pro
Lead in creation of the RDWorksLab English Manual.
Crazy Uncle Keith!

Daniel Brown

Re: Glass laser tube essential info

Postby Daniel Brown » Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:39 pm

It might work well in the north, but in Australia it gets *really* hot and an ice bucket isn't enough. It melted the ice bricks within an hour and my digital thermometer was reading water temperatures above 30*C at which point I turned it off and won't use it again until I get better cooling.

I understand the sorts of chillers I posted like that ebay one and the CW-3000 aren't going to solve the summer heat here (my plan is to never run it during the day in summer) but my question is what opinion do people have of that ebay one and whether it may have similar effectiveness, since it is over $200 cheaper than getting a CW-3000 in. In conjunction I plan to get additional ice packs and use more water to start with.

I am prepared to spend $200 on a cooler just to help make a difference but if people here believe it wouldnt work well for what I need (given that it does seem weaker than a CW-3000) I may have to re-think this.

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Keith Sherwin
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Re: Glass laser tube essential info

Postby Keith Sherwin » Mon Oct 31, 2016 9:06 pm

Hey Daniel, Really hot is a relative term. Ambient of 75 f is nice in my air conditioned shop. Where I live it gets over 100 f in the summer, others in the Phoenix area get over 115 f or 120 f. It really is a combination of ambient and laser use, but if you are experiencing high ambient and need high laser cooling temperatures then don't cheap out. Get the one of the 5000 series coolers http://www.teyuchiller.com/Products/Chi ... 0Wcoo.html YES, they are a lot of money. A 3000 is not a chiller, just a fan and radiator. I find it hard to believe your 60 watt unit generates that much heat. However, you know it does, so you really need a high power unit. I believe roger uses ice packs with his unit and it works for him, but he is in Melbourne. You might also look at the cooling bucket design by pepsi to make the water flow distribute better. Just some thoughts. I think he has several ice packs and drops a new one in as required. That is the cheapest solution. Others have used a water cooler unit and modified it to work - sometimes one can get a used one of them for a very low price. I think it was Malcolm that was doing that. Do a search here on cooling etc. Looking at your eBay unit, I doubt it would be satisfactory given your high ambient. Can you cool your shop?
Best of luck in finding a solution.
69 Real (80)Watt Laser w/multi FL lenses. T.L.
Made 5 CNC's, Electronics, Electrical, PLC & Computer background.
:idea: Started this forum - Using RDWorks V8.01.21 on W7 Pro
Lead in creation of the RDWorksLab English Manual.
Crazy Uncle Keith!

Daniel Brown

Re: Glass laser tube essential info

Postby Daniel Brown » Mon Oct 31, 2016 10:29 pm

I think I'll try get a lot more water and double the ice packs. If that doesn't fix it then I'll look into a radiator fan. I keep the machine in a garage and may have to look into air conditioning it...


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