Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

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Dustin Hawkinson
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Post by Dustin Hawkinson » Sat Nov 26, 2016 3:47 pm

I just replied to your PM, but now I read this. Are you trying to feed in a flex filament? That's probably your issue. Your extruder gears need to be very close to the nozzle, or have a very well designed guide between them in order to feed a flexible filament in otherwise it will bunch up and squeeze into other areas. It is much much easier to feed something like ABS or PLA because they are stiff.
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Keith Sherwin
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Post by Keith Sherwin » Sat Nov 26, 2016 4:04 pm

Not Flex, it is PLA which should be fairly easy. I straighten it and then press the clamp (wheel) release then push the PLA in and try to get it to move into the head. I can't see the hole, but sometime it goes deeper and I think OK! but then I try to give it 10 steps down (with the head at 220) but it just clicks and the filament doesn't move. If I apply force to the filament, then it will curl out the back, between the wheel and the heated head. I need to get a flashlight to see if the entry to the head is visible & if so, then I can try to hit it. My thoughts are that PLA is the easiest filament to work with, so that is my first try.
Gotta run as the boss is calling!
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Dustin Hawkinson
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Post by Dustin Hawkinson » Sat Nov 26, 2016 4:11 pm

Have a good ride, I PM'd you the S3D info. Are you sure your clog is cleared or you don't have another? Sounds clogged to me.
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Keith Sherwin
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Post by Keith Sherwin » Sat Nov 26, 2016 6:01 pm

I ended up taking the head assembly apart and found that one should NOT let the filament run out. There was filament below the feed gears but not in the heater and thus, no way to force it through. The bit sticking up made it impossible to get the new filament into the heat chamber.
QUESTION: should the threaded rod that extends up from the heated head be flush with the metal base below the gears OR should it extend in as close as possible to the gears (feed teeth)?
Dustin, you have a PM.
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Post by Dustin Hawkinson » Sat Nov 26, 2016 6:14 pm

I'm not sure, reach extruder assembly has a unique design. Mine has an aluminum tube clamped in an aluminum heating block and a PTFE tube leading up to the gear teeth. Sounds like yours is quite different.
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fred ungewitter
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Post by fred ungewitter » Sat Nov 26, 2016 6:18 pm

Keith, it sounds as though you experienced the same problem as the makerspace fellow. That little "cork" gets in the way!

Glad you took the gears apart, it gives you one bit more of insight into the mechanicals. If your heat break (the threaded part between the gears and the heater block) is all metal, you want it as close to the gears as you can get. If there is a piece of PTFE tubing inside the heat break, many will carve a reverse fish-mouth into the end of the tubing to get it even that much closer. Of course, if it's a reverse fish mouth in one direction, it's a fish mouth at 90 degrees rotation.

If you have PTFE inside the heat break, your printer will have trouble with those exotic filaments that require higher temperatures.
fred

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Keith Sherwin
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Post by Keith Sherwin » Sat Nov 26, 2016 7:30 pm

Well, It does not want to stick to the bed now. I leveled it. The first filament actually made a flat bed. Couldn't get it to do that with the new filament. Too much frustration.
:idea: Started this forum.
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fred ungewitter
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Post by fred ungewitter » Sat Nov 26, 2016 7:46 pm

Glass or aluminum bed? Any bed treatment, such as glue stick, blue painter's tape, buildtak, etc? Heated bed?

I was having great luck with a clean glass heated bed, then my prints stopped sticking and turning into rats nests. I was going to try glue stick, but a makerspace fellow suggested blue painters tape. Bingo. Now instead of popping off when the bed is cold, they are "challenging" to get free, but even tiny prints that heretofore required brims remain in place during the entire print.

Examine your first "thread" of filament as it is extruded and placed on the bed. It should be a compromise between being squished so flat as to be transparent and squished so little as to be simply dropped on the bed. After a few good results, you'll be able to determine that the z-height for the first layer is on the mark. If your bed is level, the first line of filament will be consistent thickness and width along the entire length.
fred

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home upper right, chuck type rotary 15000 pulse setting
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Keith Sherwin
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Posts: 1593
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RDWorks Version: V8.01.23
Accessories: Hot dog roller, doHICkey Power Meter, Multi-Lens, High power exhaust, Interior filter soon.
Windows Version: W7 Pro

Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Post by Keith Sherwin » Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:53 pm

Hey Fred, I should make another pie so you get here before it too is gone. :lol:
I'll try some Blue tape tomorrow.
I have a heated Aluminum bed and I got one great flat surface with the old filament.
Then I made adjustments clearing the nozzle and changing the Z Zero. Got that adjusted fine. Bed is level by sheet of paper just slides under the head in 4 corners & middle. New filament, First round comes out nice, second is nice then it gets stringy. Guess we could make Pan Mollys for cleaning dishes. Had tried using Dustin's S3D copy but switched back to Repetier to compare with the same software. Rats nest about describes it. :x

As Dustin said, Lasers are sooooo EASY by comparison :!:
:idea: Started this forum.
Lead in creation of the RDWorksLab English Manual.
Cheers, :D
Keith

Sam Holton
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Post by Sam Holton » Sat Nov 26, 2016 9:57 pm

The paper should drag or catch slightly not slide freely. My favorite print bed is a glass plate floating on the aluminum plate (will thermal silicone). On top of that a sheet of PEI adhered to the glass. On my phone now but can post more details later.

As you heat the aluminum bed up it can warp (more so when doing ABS) causing issues with levelling.
Sam
"50 Watt” 500mm x 300mm Chinese Laser - Home TL
3D Printer (PLA, ABS, PETg, TPU) Experience, Software Development

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