Questions for 3 Jaw Chuck Rotary Owners

Hardware settings, adjustments and fixes and other hardware discussion. This includes the "doHICky" Laser Power measurement system by Russ.
Doug Fisher
Posts: 288
Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2016 10:42 am
Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA

Questions for 3 Jaw Chuck Rotary Owners

Postby Doug Fisher » Thu Jan 05, 2017 6:31 pm

My minimally packaged and thus slightly banged up 3 jaw chuck-type rotary arrived late tonight. Oh the smell of cheap Chinese oil slathered on to equipment to minimize rusting (it is probably carcinogenic used motor oil)! After bending a few parts back into position, cleaning off the dripping oil and strategically applying some lithium grease, I did a little experimenting and have a couple of questions.

There are two sets of jaws for the chuck and each piece in each set is numbered 1 to 3. Is it advisable to label each slot and always put the #1s in the same slot each time, #2s in the same slot each time and the #3s in the same slot each time or does it not matter?

If you put a glass bottle or Yeti cup with the its bottom placed into the jaw end of your rotary, do the jaws actually grip the piece firmly? My jaws were manufactured so that the corners of the stair steps in the jaw are not 90 degree angles (on all pieces and steps) so it will not firmly grip the base because once you put much pressure on it, it will push the base of the bottle outwards.

Which leads into my next question... since the jaws on their own don't firmly hold the cup or tumbler, I seems I will need to rely on the cone at the other end of the rotary track to "squeeze" and hold the item. The cone on my unit is relatively small. It works fine for small items or small-necked things like a beer bottle or maybe a wine bottle, but for something cylindrical with a wide mouth like a Yeti tumber or a coffed cup the small cone isn't of help. How do you all work around this? I have seen rotaries from US manufactures come with swappable cones including very large rubber ones. I guess I could have one of those 3D printed. My other idea was to cut an acrylic cap with a small centering hole that I temporary place on the end of the cup before putting it into the rotary.
80 Watt 700mm x 500mm Ke Hui KH-7050 Laser (Similar to the Red Sail),T.R.
LaSea/EFR F2 Series laser tube, RuiDa RDC6442G EC controller, 2" lens, RDWorks v8.01.18, CW 5000 chiller, Chuck type of rotary attachment
Doug

Alexis Tzoulis
Posts: 89
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 5:03 pm
Location: Greece

Re: Questions for 3 Jaw Chuck Rotary Owners

Postby Alexis Tzoulis » Fri Jan 06, 2017 12:56 am

You must put 1 jaw in 1 position 2 jaw in 2 position 3 jaw in 3 position.
First set of jaws is to grip pieces from outer and the other set is to grip pieces from inner.
If you can not grip piece with jaws then make a taper cone in a lathe and put the piece between 2 cones center-center grip.
KH-7050 60w (50w real) (700mmx500mm) redsail clone TR
Ruida 6442G controller - MYJG-60W power supply - 1000mm/50mm co2 tube
RDWorks V8.01.19 - corel draw x8 - windows 10
Alexis


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