Additional Wood/Acrylic pre-processing gear.

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Jeffrey Aley
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Re: Additional Wood/Acrylic pre-processing gear.

Post by Jeffrey Aley »

A question and a comment:

Question: When using the circular saw (i.e. in "table saw mode") how will you ensure the fence is parallel to the blade? This is very important to avoid binding and kickback.

Comment: I VERY strongly suggest you include some kind of riving knife for the circular saw to prevent kickback. Kickback can be extremely dangerous, and surprisingly, the danger isn't from the piece of wood flying at you at high speed (which is itself a Bad Thing). There's a very significant danger of your fingers (which were holding that wood) coming in contact with the blade (which will impact your ability to touch-type).

Yes, there are people who use table saws w/o riving knives installed, and get away with it. But if you're designing a home-brew saw with Fusion360, I suggest that you're trying to make a tool that's BETTER, not one that's worse than what you could buy.
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Tim Mellor
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Re: Additional Wood/Acrylic pre-processing gear.

Post by Tim Mellor »

The Circular Saw bit is still a WIP the others are relatively easy.

With adjustment the plan is to use the existing baseplate of the saw and 4 blocks with adjustment screws for setting the track and holding it in place. Depending on usage this is potentially a PITA so maybe a second saw might make sense for general use rather than having to muck about with setting the track each change of use. The Makita Battery one is looking good ;)

The current saw I have doesn't have any sort of riving knife so yep it is a potential issue. Building a simple splitter shouldn't be to hard to incorporate as there is room in the saw base in that area to allow a following blade and mount. Not to dismiss it either but this is also a 7" blade not a 10" 3-4HP monster. A very good mate of my Fathers fed his hand through a Triton some years ago so a push stick or block is a must. Likely use will be ply, acrylic or panels so some of what the knife is there for is a non issue.
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Tim Mellor
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Re: Additional Wood/Acrylic pre-processing gear.

Post by Tim Mellor »

Today youtube decided I needed to look at more portable or temporary woodworking setups. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpJcG8J1-bs

It was a kickstarter a few years ago and available as a plan only option https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tr ... uction-run

Plans currently not available but the basic idea shouldn't be hard to tweak to suit others and much safer if you want to strip full sheets than standard saw horses.
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Tim Mellor
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Re: Additional Wood/Acrylic pre-processing gear.

Post by Tim Mellor »

Much looking at Track vs Table vs likely usage and space required for storage sort of a path forward.

I have had a good look around for the plans for the Tri Horse system above and the Website is gone and no updates online for several years that I can find.

So in having a look at what I needed or was likely to need to use with a Track or Circular saw for breaking down full sheets safely single handed. I have rolled my own taking in some bits from the Tri Horse and other modular benches/saw horses on the net. The size shown is 1200mm down the horse end to end and 1276 side to side wide for an idea of scale. Easy to make it wider but then the 200mm cross braces might need bulking up.

General planned construction two layers of 19mm Ply bonded together for strength at this stage as getting single thicker ply locally is NIL. I have tweaked the design down so it will fit on two full size sheets and there should be sufficient leftovers for the sliders. Sliders are two pairs of blanks and a top piece as shown.

The adjustable sliders on the cross rails will take a simple squeeze clamp to hold the sheets in place and the idea is the cut takes place in between them (only two shown but use two pairs). This means even with offset cuts the panel should stay put even when cut. If you have a concern about kickback then a wedge into the cut as you go through would help reduce any risks. The key thing here is there should be minimal to zero drop of the cut sections for a clean exit.

Still a work in progress but it might give some ideas to others to help playing safer when breaking down sheets.
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Tim Mellor
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Re: Additional Wood/Acrylic pre-processing gear.

Post by Tim Mellor »

Not much time for Laser stuff at present but I have the rough blanks in the shack for the Horses fairly much as above and hope to get to them later in the week.

Also did a bit more looking and musing on options and add ons that would be useful later. So an easy fit MFT type dog hole top and pipe clamp vice.

The MFT would fit with the standard clamps flipped inside for a flush finish and bolted down with four countersunk screws or left outward for additional clamping points.

The Vice is based on generic 1/2" Pipe woodworking clamps and would have an additional inner brace and a 2" hardwood outer jaw with extra dog holes as shown. It would be held in position by push in dogs from the rear brace side and wouldn't need tools to fit or remove. To add this to the horse frames it needs two additional 22mm holes to be drilled to clear the Gal Pipes and would use the existing dog holes to locate it. Plenty of variations on it but this sort of thing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nhq7koOVVM
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Tim Mellor
Posts: 560
Joined: Wed May 29, 2019 2:27 am
Location: Shipwreck Coast, Victoria
Country: Australia
Nickname: beanflying
Laser Machine Make or Type: Vollerun WR3020
Laser Power: 40W
Laser Bed Size: 300x200
Home Position: TR
RDWorks Version: n/a
Accessories: Modded and still Modding some more.
Windows Version: 10

Re: Additional Wood/Acrylic pre-processing gear.

Post by Tim Mellor »

Another tough afternoons 'work' on my new Plunge saw track. Keeping on the straight and narrow with the assistance of Beer and Vitamin D. Only off by 0.5mm in 1400mm but chase it out for an easier life in use later. Suck it up Northerners too your Sun will come back eventually :lol:

Edge trimmed with a narrow 40 tooth blade fitted. 1.8mm Kerf based on a rough test and a few cuts.
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