Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

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Keith Sherwin
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Postby Keith Sherwin » Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:21 pm

I was going to say like using a feeler gauge. With a bit of drag.
69 Real (80)Watt Laser w/multi FL lenses. T.L.
Made 5 CNC's, Electronics, Electrical, PLC & Computer background.
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Lead in creation of the RDWorksLab English Manual.
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Dustin Hawkinson
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Postby Dustin Hawkinson » Sat Nov 26, 2016 9:56 pm

I also prefer glass to get a perfectly flat surface. Although I've had success with painter's tape and buildtak, I get frustrated attempting to remove prints. What I've been doing for quite a while is coating the glass (outside of the printer) with a layer of Aqua Net hairspray and letting it dry overnight before clamping it back to the aluminum bed. I have two glass beds I can rotate, but it actually lasts so long I don't really use both.

ABS sticks to it great, and if you let it cool long enough, the part will lift off as if it were never attached to the bed. TPU really sticks to it, almost too well, but it is flexible so it won't break as you pry it free.

Two things that are crucial to adhering to the bed are extruder temp and the temperature of the bed Each material and each brand of that material will need slightly different temperatures. Sometimes even different colors of the same brand and material need tweaking. If you have active cooling make sure it is not turned on for at least the first three to five layers.

If you just can't get a part to stick, you can always try using a raft. I've never had a raft fail to stick, even if my settings were a little off.
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fred ungewitter
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Postby fred ungewitter » Sun Nov 27, 2016 4:49 am

Keith Sherwin wrote:I was going to say like using a feeler gauge. With a bit of drag.


When I calibrate my printer, I use a feeler gauge, as I felt the paper trick was too inconsistent. I later read on more than one blog that a feeler gauge is the best way, as the paper will eventually wear or a different paper provides a different thickness.

Your earlier post describes that the first two layers appear okay, but later ones not so much. Check the slicer settings for layer setting changes above layer one or two and see what you can massage there.

Filament temps on my printer drop five degrees C after the first layer, and speeds increase. If yours are similarly changed, you may find the answer there.

I'm inclined to agree that lasers are easier, even though I'm printing more than I'm cutting lately.
fred

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Keith Sherwin
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Postby Keith Sherwin » Sun Nov 27, 2016 5:09 am

fred ungewitter wrote:When I calibrate my printer, I use a feeler gauge, as I felt the paper trick was too inconsistent.

What thickness do you use? 0.003" ?
I'm thinking that I should donate this printer to somewhere local like a high school shop.
Give the young ones an extra dose of frustration.
I'll keep trying to get it going for a while today. When I said that it did the first two layers, that was not correct. It does the first two rounds, then seems to catch a bit and make a mouse nest. I suppose if I get the correct settings for this PLA then it should be OK for the rest of the spool.
What settings do you use for PLA? I was using 200 C nozzle & 75 C bed It seemed to stick better with the heated bed. I leave it at 200 for a few minutes before I start printing.

I'm thinking that Gene should NOT get into this as he already has the Bodor's to give him grief!
69 Real (80)Watt Laser w/multi FL lenses. T.L.
Made 5 CNC's, Electronics, Electrical, PLC & Computer background.
:idea: Started this forum - Using RDWorks V8.01.21 on W7 Pro
Lead in creation of the RDWorksLab English Manual.
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fred ungewitter
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Postby fred ungewitter » Sun Nov 27, 2016 7:44 am

El Presidente of our makerspace gave his Prusa i3 clone away to another member, to completely solve his frustration. If yours ends up at a school shop, the instructor may inherit the frustration, as I've found the youth of today have attention spans shorter than... okay, blank space here.

I've been running 70C bed and 220/215C for PLA and had been having good luck for the last 20 hours of printing or so. Last night, nothing wanted to work. This morning, after a thorough nozzle cleaning (nylon cold pull method) I'm still getting mediocre prints and don't know why.

The feeler gauge I've been using as a reference is 0.004 inches/0.100 mm and puts the nozzle in the ballpark for the z-calibration sequence.

I would not be confident that a particular configuration for PLA would hold true for an entire spool. I'm halfway through one of my spools of black PLA and it appears that the first half went well with one set of temperatures, while I expect I'll have to search again to figure where the remaining amount wants to melt out properly. My current print is "porous" and crumbles at the previous settings. I'm on a self-imposed deadline to finish this print in time for the meeting, so I can't experiment enough to resolve it.

Thinking again about your mouse nest. If the filament isn't sufficiently squished into the bed, it will lift. The problem I see with your example is the first two rounds being okay. Could your bed be warped? I can't picture some other flaw causing the nozzle to lift the small amount to cause what you describe, but I can picture a bubble warp in the bed generating such a problem.

Relocating the build to another location on the plate may tell you something in that regards.
fred

Redsail clone 60w 700 x 500
home upper right
RDWorks 8.01.18
Windows 7

Emblaser A3 4w diode laser
BCN3D Sigma Dual Extruder 3d printer
LMS Mini-mill
Cube 3rd gen 3d printer (works great, for sale)
Under construction: OX CNC 1000x750 router - out of the box, still in baggies!

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Keith Sherwin
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Postby Keith Sherwin » Sun Nov 27, 2016 9:08 am

Hi Fred, I believe it would be ah "Squirrel" :!:
I put my knee out yesterday trying to get at the nozzle to look at it and had a lot of pain all night and into this morning.
I suspect that is adding to the feeling of give away / frustration. There is a makerspace in Kamloops and we have a member in this forum. Possibly I should give it to him for the space. They are trying to get one going in a closer town and I have contacted them. Another member of the forum has made me the Item I was trying to make, so I might give him the 3 rolls of filament in exchange for him making the gears/parts I need.
Might be able to get Dustin to do it for the 3 rolls, as I will be in Mesa in January. Hard to say what I will do, but I really don't need more aggravation.

As for level, the other filament did make the fill bottom layer in the same place on the bed. It is approximately 2" x 4" in an oval with several holes in the middle. It was going well until the filament ran out. I guess I will just take a break on working with it for a period of time as dealing with the registration & name changes has taken a toll on my normally good nature. I really only need a couple of pieces made to make the Rotary that Gene made, & I can order them from the source. This is where Gene posts about it viewtopic.php?f=12&t=93&p=198&hilit=anodized+tumblers#p198

Thanks ALL for your assistance in my learning there is a lot more to 3D printing than I had originally thought.
69 Real (80)Watt Laser w/multi FL lenses. T.L.
Made 5 CNC's, Electronics, Electrical, PLC & Computer background.
:idea: Started this forum - Using RDWorks V8.01.21 on W7 Pro
Lead in creation of the RDWorksLab English Manual.
Crazy Uncle Keith!

Dustin Hawkinson
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Postby Dustin Hawkinson » Sun Nov 27, 2016 2:31 pm

Nooooooooooooo! Ah it sucks to get to that point.

If anyone reading in the future this has a need for 3D printing but doesn't have time for the headaches, a friend of mine has the Lulzbot Mini which is as close to a plug and play 3D printer as I've ever seen. It costs more than many with similar capabilities, but you literally don't ever have to level a bed, deal with painter's tape/glue/hairspray etc or any of the other major issues that plague beginners. Highly recommended for ABS and PLA.

Keith, if I can print the parts you need I'll mail them to you, no cost. Send the filament with the printer when you donate it.

Edit: Are these parts printed in SLA? Stereolithography is a completely different way of "printing" in 3 dimensions.
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Keith Sherwin
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Postby Keith Sherwin » Sun Nov 27, 2016 3:27 pm

I think they can be easily converted.
69 Real (80)Watt Laser w/multi FL lenses. T.L.
Made 5 CNC's, Electronics, Electrical, PLC & Computer background.
:idea: Started this forum - Using RDWorks V8.01.21 on W7 Pro
Lead in creation of the RDWorksLab English Manual.
Crazy Uncle Keith!

Dustin Hawkinson
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Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016 4:55 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ USA

Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Postby Dustin Hawkinson » Sun Nov 27, 2016 5:54 pm

I tried printing one of the drive gears in ABS. Turned out decently, you can see some backlash artifacts and the overhang above the gear teeth was a little tough, but overall not bad. The photos make the flaws stand out, in person it looks a little better.

IMG_0578.JPG


IMG_0579.JPG
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40W (ebay 50W blue wonder), 300mm x 500m, TL
Windows10 RDW 8.01.19
(The member formerly known as astral)
-Dustin

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Keith Sherwin
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Re: Simplify3D for 3D Printing ?

Postby Keith Sherwin » Sun Nov 27, 2016 6:14 pm

Looks WAY BETTER that my machine :lol: :lol:

Did you do all 4 parts? If so, that is really fast :!:
Guess I had best get the rest of the (hard to get) items ordered unless Gene has spares.
I think most of the parts are easy to obtain except for the knurled knobs, belts/rubber and such
Thanks Dustin.
69 Real (80)Watt Laser w/multi FL lenses. T.L.
Made 5 CNC's, Electronics, Electrical, PLC & Computer background.
:idea: Started this forum - Using RDWorks V8.01.21 on W7 Pro
Lead in creation of the RDWorksLab English Manual.
Crazy Uncle Keith!


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